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Robert St. John’s most memorable...

Robert St. John’s most memorable meals of 2024

By: Robert St. John - January 6, 2025

  • St. John says his annual list isn’t about the fanciest, most exclusive, or faraway dining experiences he’s had but about meals that stuck with him for one reason or another.

For the past 25 years, my final column of the year has always been a list of the top 10 most memorable meals I enjoyed in the previous year. The list isn’t about the fanciest, most exclusive, or faraway dining experiences I’ve had—it’s about meals that stuck with me for one reason or another.

Side Note: We’re a dining-out family, and we eat locally in Hattiesburg a lot. I haven’t included any of those places on the main list, though they all hold a very special place in my heart. This year, I’s also like to share the top 10 local spots I frequent most often (in no particular order):

  • Donanelle’s: A dive-bar with great steaks and ribs.
  • Jutama’s: My go-to for great Thai food.
  • Petra: The best Mediterranean food in town.
  • Big Trouble: A mixed-bag Asian spot with a creative menu.
  • T-Bones: The best sandwich you’ll eat in a record store.
  • Mexican Kitchen: if you’re not from this area, you’re probably not going to get it. But if you grew up eating there since the mid 1970s, it’s likely one of your mainstays.
  • Wasabi: My favorite sushi spot in Hattiesburg.
  • Triangle Seafood: Legit po’boys made the right way.
  • Cuevas Fish House, Purvis: My go-to for fried catfish and hushpuppies.
  • Indian Delight: Authentic Indian comfort food.
  • Southbound Bagel: A reliable breakfast option when my breakfast joints are closed.

Here’s wishing each of them a prosperous New Year and positive cash flows in 2025.

Honorable Mentions

Laser Wolf, Brooklyn, NY:
The best French fries and hummus I’ve ever eaten were at this lively spot on top of the hip Hoxton overlooking the river. Perfectly crisp fries cooked using a three-day process, and hummus so good it should be the gold standard for all that come after—both were a revelation.

Loblolly Bakery, Hattiesburg, MS: During a breakfast meeting with the leadership team to gear up for King Cake season, we got a surprise call: Loblolly had been named one of The New York Times’ Top 22 Bakeries in the U.S. High fives and shouts of joy, among bagels and buttery croissants made it a breakfast I’ll never forget.

The 2024 List

10. Christmas Eve Dinner at Petra, Hattiesburg
There’s a famous scene in the film, A Christmas Story where the family ends up at a Chinese restaurant after their turkey is destroyed by the neighbor’s dogs. My family’s Christmas Eve this year had a similar twist—minus the dogs. A chicken-and-andouille gumbo debacle was followed by a corn-and-crab bisque disaster. We abandoned ship and headed to Petra, where laughter over shared plates of Chicken Shawarma turned the evening into a joyful family memory.

9. Couscous Luncheon, Cefalù, Sicily
In October, I hosted my second RSJ Yonderlust Tour in Sicily. One of the most memorable meals was lunch at a sweet couple’s historic home—a former monastery perched high on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. The couscous they prepared was incredible, managing to edge out even a picnic lunch on Mt. Etna. For a meal to beat one served on an active volcano, it had to be extraordinary.

8. Swift & Sons, Chicago
Fifteen years ago, I took my then eight-year-old son on one of our early father-son trips to Park City, Utah. I introduced him to Ruth’s Chris’ for his first upscale steakhouse experience. Since then, it’s become “our thing.” This year, we shared dinner at Swift & Sons during the National Restaurant Association Trade Show. It was particularly special because next week, he’ll start his career with the Boka Restaurant Group, owners of Swift & Sons.

7. Terry Black’s BBQ, Dallas
I’m no stranger to barbecue, but my experience had been mostly confined to wood-fired smokers east of the Mississippi. I’ve known about Texas barbecue, but nothing prepared me for the marvel of a perfectly smoked beef rib at Terry Black’s during a catering convention I attended in Austin. After that first visit, I made two more trips to Terry Black’s, later in the year, while in Dallas, each time savoring the smoky, tender perfection of their beef ribs. (Note: the best place for beef ribs in Mississippi is at Sacred Ground BBQ in Pocahontas, more on that place next week).

6. Birthday Dinner, Purple Parrot Room at the Crescent City Grill, Hattiesburg
Each year, my wife asks me what I want for my birthday, and my answer is always the same: a small dinner with our closest friends. This year, Chef Nevil Barr outdid himself with an unforgettable menu just two nights before I left to work in Italy. Sharing that evening with dear friends made it even more special.

5. Le Bernardin, New York
For 25 years, I’ve sent countless people to Le Bernardin, praising Eric Ripert’s seafood mastery, but I had never dined there myself. This summer, while visiting my son, I finally checked it off the list. Ripert’s brilliance in handling seafood was everything I’d imagined. Their recent honor as the world’s number one restaurant was well-deserved.

4. Spanish Housewives’ Lunch, Malaga, Spain
When planning RSJ Yonderlust Tours, I look for authentic, local experiences. This year, we arranged for our group to split into smaller parties and enjoy home-cooked meals in the homes of Spanish housewives in a quaint little town in the Spanish countryside. Walking the cobblestone streets to their homes, being welcomed like family, and eating at their dining room tables felt deeply personal and unforgettable. It doesn’t get more “local” than that.

3. Emeril’s, New Orleans
My son completed his externship at the newly reimagined Emeril’s this spring, working under EJ Lagasse. At just 21, EJ is a powerhouse of talent, passion, commitment, and charm. Dining there was like stepping into a fine dining experience on par with The French Laundry or Per Se—Emeril’s is truly in a league of its own now.

2. Dinner in a Scottish Castle, Benderloch, Scotland
As part of an RSJ Yonderlust Tour through England and Scotland, we dined in a medieval castle north of Oban. Before dinner, the men donned kilts (yes, they’re as freeing as you’ve heard). Our host for the Scottish leg of the trip recited a poem by Robert Burns, bagpipes played, songs were sung, and haggis was on the menu. The evening felt like stepping into another time—a truly unforgettable night. A great time was had by all (and many of the men wound up buying kilts)

1. Graduation Dinner, Cote, New York
Two weeks ago, my son graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, the continuation of an eight-year plan. To celebrate, he chose Cote, a Michelin-starred Korean barbecue spot in Manhattan’s Flatiron District. As the dishes rolled out—perfectly grilled meats, inventive sides, and excellent condiments and sauces—we learned why he had insisted on it. It was a fitting end to his journey and the perfect way to celebrate his future.

Here’s to many memorable meals for you and yours in 2025.

Onward.


This Week’s Recipe: Black-eyed Pea Hummus

If you’re looking for a creative twist on traditional hummus, black-eyed pea hummus is a delicious and nutritious option. Made with creamy black-eyed peas, tangy lemon, and a hint of garlic, this dip offers a unique Southern flair while keeping all the classic flavors you love. Perfect as a party appetizer, a spread for sandwiches, or a healthy snack, this recipe is both easy to make and irresistibly tasty.

Ingredients

2 teaspoons fresh garlic, minced
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ cup tahini paste
2 cups cooked black-eyed peas
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
¼ cup olive oil plus 2 tablespoons to drizzle on top when serving
2 tablespoons fresh chives, chopped
¼ cup pinenuts, toasted

Instructions

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the garlic, salt, smoked paprika, cumin, tahini paste, black-eyed peas, lemon juice and quarter cup olive oil. Puree until smooth.

Spoon the hummus into a serving dish and top with the extra olive oil, chives and pinenuts. Serve with eggplant chips.

About the Author(s)
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Robert St. John

Robert St. John is a chef, restaurateur, author, enthusiastic traveler and world-class eater. He has spent four decades in the restaurant business, thirty-three of those as the owner of the Crescent City Grill, Mahogany Bar, Branch, Tabella, Ed’s Burger Joint, The Midtowner, and El Rayo Tex-Mex in Hattiesburg, as well as Highball Lanes, The Pearl, The Capri, and Enzo Osteria in the Jackson area. Robert has written eleven books including An Italian Palate, written in Europe while traveling through 72 cities in 17 countries in six months with his wife and two children. Robert has written his syndicated newspaper column for twenty years. Read more about Robert at robertstjohn.com.
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