Spend a day on The Square in Oxford

• Since its incorporation in 1837, Oxford, Mississippi, has been a city steeped in history, with The Square as its cultural and economic heart.

Oxford is a unique blend of seasons and semesters orchestrated by The University of Mississippi. But it’s not just any college town. It’s a literary haven, a culinary delight, a music lover’s paradise, a living history book, and an art enthusiast’s dream. Its distinct charm, a fusion of these diverse elements, is sure to intrigue and captivate you, making your visit a memorable experience. 

With its diverse offerings, a day spent on “The Square” is a day well spent, regardless of the season. It’s a visual treat year-round and is one of my favorite ways to spend a Saturday. The Square’s rich tapestry of experiences, from shopping to dining, offers a variety that will pique your interest and leave you eager to explore every corner. 

Since its incorporation in 1837, Oxford, Mississippi, has been a city steeped in history, with The Square as its cultural and economic heart. The Square’s various shops and elegant boutiques, including Neilson’s Department Store, the South’s oldest department store, is a living testament to its rich history. It’s a place to be appreciated and cherished, connecting you to the city’s past and making you feel a part of its rich heritage. 

As you walk the streets of Oxford Square, detour over to Faulkner Alley. In his earlier years, William Faulkner used this alley to frequent the Gathright-Reed Drug Company, where he would borrow books from Mr. Mac Reed’s lending library. The drugstore was one of the only places his books could be purchased when he became a published author. In recognition of the Nobel Prize-winning novelist, the City of Oxford dubbed the walkway Faulkner Alley in the 1980’s.

Around the bend, you will find one of the nation’s most renowned independent bookstore. Square Books has book signings and readings and carries every book in print by William Faulkner, as well as books by many other beloved Mississippi authors. It’s a book lover’s dream. 

Square Books also offers Off Square Books and Square Books Jr., all within 100 feet of each other. Square Books Jr. is a colorful children’s bookstore with a perfect aesthetic that allows young imaginations to wander. Use the doorway next to the children’s store and head upstairs. This is the most recent (opened in 2020) offshoot of Square Books and is located around the same charming Oxford Square. Here, you will find rare first edition books among a large selection of Faulkner, including signed editions and Ole Miss Yearbooks where Faulkner’s first published poems can be found. Also, there are a lot of signed John Grisham books, as Grisham is a friend of Square Books. This upstairs literary haven feels hidden, which makes you feel like you’re finding hidden treasure (even though there’s a sign indicating what it is). Bottom line, it is definitely worth stopping by and taking a look.

Extraordinary cuisine is also abundant around the historic Square. From down-home southern cooking to elegant cuisine, there is something to satisfy everyone’s appetite. City Grocery offers fine Southern cuisine from chef John Currence, winner of the 2009 James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef South. Dolly Parton has visited City Grocery, so if it’s good enough for Dolly, it’s good enough for me. Indeed, it’s delicious! Patrons can also enjoy live local music there in the evenings.

Consider Proud Larry’s or Ajax Diner if you’re looking for something a little more casual for lunch. Whether you’re on or off The Square, Oxford offers endless dining options for various appetites and budgets. 

As you leisurely walk around, you can’t help but notice the historic Oxford Courthouse, “Courthouse Square,” which is where The Square got its namesake. The building is also a focal point in the hustle and bustle of the epicenter. Built in 1872 (the original was burned in 1864), visitors may tour the building, which makes a beautiful backdrop for photo ops.

Speaking of photo ops, the town of Oxford was named after Oxford, England, so it’s only fitting that it has a double-decker bus and a red phone booth. Both offer perfect for photo ops with friends and family. The iconic red telephone booth was added to Oxford Square on Aug. 30, 1995, and was donated by Oxford resident John Valentine. Valentine purchased the red phone booth when he served as a U.S. Air Force colonel in Oxford, England. Later, he shipped it back to Mississippi and donated it to the city.

Today, Oxford’s famous red telephone booth is listed on geocaching websites. It’s also a meeting place for Oxford’s Ghost Tours—yes, those are offered on The Square, too. As you can imagine, with buildings dating back to the 1800s, the historic structures bring new meaning to the saying, “If these walls could talk.” 

When you consider the stately, historic homes, a charming town square packed with shops, galleries, and restaurants, and welcoming locals, you’ve got a pretty ideal place to live or to visit. Unlike most small towns, there’s more to discover in Oxford than you can fit into a single weekend. My advice? Spend a day on The Square. Whether you’re there to shop, eat, or simply walk around and experience its storied streets, paved with bricks and hospitality, everyone will enjoy a day on Oxford Square.