- Robert St. John takes us on a restaurant tour of his favorite places to eat in the Big Easy.
In a poll of national food critics I believe New Orleans would be listed among the top three food cities in America. To my taste— and I’ve eaten extensively in most of America’s top restaurant cities— New Orleans is number one. Period. No question. End of discussion.
I consider myself fortunate to have grown up 90 minutes away from this culinary mecca. As a restaurateur and part-time New Orleanian I’m blessed to have spent over six decades eating my way through the city, typically logging in more than 100 New Orleans restaurant meals annually.
For the past couple of decades, I’ve kept a journal of my restaurant visits in New Orleans. I also keep a to-do list of new restaurants I have yet to visit, and a separate list of restaurants I plan to re-visit. I typically field hundreds of requests for restaurant recommendations in New Orleans each year. There are a few dozen restaurants that aren’t on any to-do or re-visit list because they are places that I frequent on a regular basis. The following is that list.
MY FAVORITE BREAKFAST SPOT
LA BOULANGERIE
4600 Magazine St #1518, New Orleans, LA 70115 | laboulangerienola.com
Almost every morning I’m in town, I drive from the Marigny to Uptown Magazine just west of Napoleon, because the croissants made at Donald Link’s bakery are worth the drive.
Other Breakfast Joints I Frequent:
Toast
1845 Gentilly Blvd, New Orleans, LA 70119 | toastneworleans.com
There is a French Quarter location, but I like the one near the fairgrounds. I also like Willa Jean 611 O’Keefe Ave.
MY FAVORITE BRUNCH SPOT
PALADAR 511
511 Marigny St, New Orleans, LA 70117 | paladar511.com
This is the place I eat brunch most often, and not just because it’s in our building. The huevos rancheros and the lemon-ricotta blueberry pancakes are stellar. I can never choose between the two, so I always order both. The Eggs Benedict is unique and loaded with corn and crabmeat. They offer a great dinner menu as well.
Other Brunches I Frequent:
Brennan’s
417 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | brennansneworleans.com
Of the four old-line French Quarter institutions— Galitoire’s, Arnaud’s Antoine’s, and Brennan’s— I eat at the latter most often, and almost always for brunch. Ralph Brennan did the city a huge favor when he took over the reins several years back.
Commander’s Palace
1403 Washington Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130 | commanderspalace.com
The old blue lady in the Garden District never disappoints and has been the launching pad for some of the nation’s most legendary chefs. Meg Bickford is currently under the toque and carrying that flame.
Gris Gris
1800 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | grisgrisnola.com
Eric Cook is a hard-working, dedicated chef who has excellent touch when it comes to food and a keen eye in knowing what his guests want. The brunch is great, but so are lunch and dinner. It’s a great Monday spot, too. Cook also owns Saint John in the French Quarter, definitely worth a visit.
MY FAVORITE LUNCH
MERIL
424 Girod St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | bemeril.com
I am a frequent lunch guest here, love the food and the interior murals are spectacular. The Lagasse’s know how to prepare fish, it’s in their blood.
MY FAVORITE DINNER SPOT
BRIGTSEN’S
723 Dante St, New Orleans, LA 70118 | brigtsens.com
This restaurant and this chef have been at the top of my list for more than three decades. Frank Brigtsen is the heir apparent to his longtime mentor, Paul Prudhomme. The Butternut Shrimp Bisque is one of the best soups I have ever tasted (second only to Paul Bocuse’s mushroom soup in Lyon). The seafood platter makes use of Warren LeRuth’s baked oyster recipe. I could seriously make a meal of the crawfish cornbread, and mashed potatoes, and often do. This is real New Orleans. Long live Frank Brigtsen.
Other dinner spots I frequent:
La Petit Grocery
4238 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115 | lapetitegrocery.com
The birthplace of the Blue Crab Beignet. Chef Justin Devillier is certainly one of the city’s best.
Lilette
3637 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115 | liletterestaurant.com
Also a perfect spot for lunch.
MY FAVORITE PLACE FOR FINE DINING
EMERIL’S
800 Tchoupitoulas Street, New Orleans, LA 70130 | emerilsrestaurant.com
the newly re-envisioned Emeril’s is not only the best fine dining restaurant in the city. I believe it’s the best fine dining restaurant in the entire South. Twenty-one-year-old E.J. Lagasse is one of the most impressive chefs— of any age— I have known in my 43 years in this business. I wrote an entire column on my most recent experience. You can read that here.
OTHER FINE DINING I FREQUENT:
August
301 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | restaurantaugust.com
I love the room, the service is always impeccable, and it keeps getting better. The meal I enjoyed there a few weeks ago was the best— of many— I’ve ever eaten in that establishment.
Saint Germain
3054 St Claude Ave, New Orleans, LA 70117 | saintgermainnola.com
It’s not about the atmosphere, it’s about the food. The chefs at Saint Germaine have excellent “touch.” It’s a tough reservation to get. Partially because there are only 12 seats inside, but also because it is so good.
MY FAVORITE STEAKHOUSE
DORIS METROPOLITAN
620 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | dorismetropolitan.com
Their aged prime beef is excellent. Never misses.
OTHER STEAKHOUSES I FREQUENT:
Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse
716 Iberville St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com
Great steaks with Brennan family service. No matter which branch of the family one eats with, the service is stellar. It’s in their genes.
MY FAVORITE PO-BOY SHOP
DOMILISE’S
5240 Annunciation St, New Orleans, LA 70115 | domilisespoboys.com
My go-to for po-boys for over 30 years.
OTHER PO-BOY SHOPS I FREQUENT:
Parkway Bakery and Tavern
538 Hagan Ave, New Orleans, LA 70119 | parkwaypoorboys.com
There’s always a line so schedule accordingly.
R&O Restaurant and Catering
216 Metairie-Hammond Hwy, Metairie, LA 70005
A great roast beef po-boy, and excellent fried seafood.
If there’s no line out of the door (rare) at the Acme in the Quarter dash in, be seated, order the best roast beef po-boy in town, and a dozen on the half shell with the hottest horseradish known to man. Excellent. I wrote it off as a tourist trap years ago, but it’s still legit.
MY FAVORITE SANDWICH
THE SAM AT STEIN’S DELI
2207 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | steinsdeli.com
In years past I have driven from Hattiesburg, ordered this sandwich, eaten it, and driven home.
Other awesome and original sandwiches:
Turkey & the Wolf
739 Jackson Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130 | turkeyandthewolf.com
Mason Herford— my favorite Instagram follow— turned the sandwich world upside down in the most beautiful and hilarious way. The Collard Green Melt and Fried Bologna Sandwiches are, on one hand, everyman’s food, and on the other hand, brilliantly inspired.
The Deli Deluxe at Martin’s Wine Cellar is a close cousin to the Sam at Stein’s and has been a mainstay for decades.
MY FAVORITE APPETIZER
OYSTER BLT, GRIS GRIS
1800 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | grisgrisnola.com
Perfection on a plate. Smoked pork belly, tomato jam, crispy fried oysters, and sugarcane vinegar with a touch of heat.
Other Favorite Appetizers:
Shrimp and Tasso with Five-Pepper Jelly, Commander’s Palace,
1403 Washington Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130 | commanderspalace.com
The first time I ate it I immediately ordered another before my entrée arrived.
MY FAVORITE ITALIAN
DOMENICA
123 Baronne St, New Orleans, LA 70112 | domenicarestaurant.com
I spend 12 weeks a year working in Italy. Most of that time is spent in Tuscany. Chef Valeriano Chiella is from that region, and we are lucky that he has hung his chef’s hat over here for the past decade.
Other Italian restaurants I frequent:
Gianna
700 Magazine St #101, New Orleans, LA 70130 | giannarestaurant.com
The Italian Barrel
1240 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116 | theitalianbarrel.com
MY FAVORITE MEXICAN CUISINE
EL GATO NEGRO
French Quarter, Lakeview, and Gretna | elgatonegronola.com
Get the wet-aged skirt steak any way they prepare it.
MY FAVORITE PIZZA
PIZZA DELICIOUS
617 Piety, New Orleans, LA 70117 | pizzadelicious.com
Excellent pies.
MY FAVORITE BURGER
COMPANY BURGER
4600 Freret St, New Orleans, LA 70115 | thecompanyburger.com
Everything I want in a burger joint.
(Note: Those who wait in line at Port of Call can get the same burger at Snug Harbor a few blocks away, without the wait)
MY FAVORITE THAI RESTAURANT
SUKHO THAI
2200 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70117 | sukhothai-nola.com
My family eats a fair amount of Thai food. This place is always spot on.
MY FAVORITE CHINESE
MISS SHIRLEY’S
3009 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115 | missshirleyschineserestaurant.com
I hate when I ask a server, “What’s good?” and the reply is, “It’s all good.” So, it pains me to say, with this recommendation, and in reference to their menu, it’s all good. It’s true.
MY FAVORITE OYSTER BAR
PASCAL’S MANALE
1838 Napoleon Ave, New Orleans, LA 70115 | pascalsmanale.com
It’s an old-school stand-up oyster bar. The oysters are always cold and salty. My son and I go there for the raw oysters and always eat dinner somewhere else. He would probably tell you that Casamento’s is his favorite.
I also like eating oysters at Cooter Brown’s at the Riverbend (oysters always taste better in a dive bar).
MY FAVORITE ATMOSPHERE
SEAWORTHY
630 Carondelet St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | seaworthynola.com
The designers did such a great job on all aspects of this interior. Nothing formal. I love it. Killer oyster selection, too.
MY OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH FAVORITE
ROSEDALE
801 Rosedale Drive New Orleans, LA 70124 | rosedalerestaurant.com
You have to be going there to get there, but this Susan Spicer restaurant almost feels as if it were 100% tailor made for me— very casual, comfortable, with great service and excellent food. The barbeque shrimp served there should be the gold standard for all others. The fried chicken thighs ARE perfect.
MY FAVORITE TACOS
GALAXIE TACOS
3060 St Claude Ave, New Orleans, LA 70117 | galaxietacos.com
The barbacoa tacos here are spot on. The converted gas station vibe is perfect, and there’s almost always a place to park on the neutral ground of St. Claude.
OTHER TACO JOINTS:
Val’s
4632 Freret St, New Orleans, LA 70115 | valsnola.com
there must be something about tacos served in a converted gas station that appeals to me.
MY FAVORITE GUMBO
GRIS GRIS
1800 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | grisgrisnola.com
Eric Cook is quickly becoming one of my top-five favorite chefs in the city. His gumbo is so good it’s where I take out-of-town guests who have never eaten that particular dish before.
OTHER GUMBOS I LIKE:
Herbsaint
701 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130 | herbsaint.com
Station 6
105 Metairie-Hammond Hwy, Metairie, LA 70005 | station6nola.com
MY FAVORITE SOUP
SHRIMP AND SQUASH BISQUE: BRIGTSEN’S
723 Dante St, New Orleans, LA 70118 | brigtsens.com
So good it’s worth mentioning twice in this list. I get a pint and take it home.
MY OFTEN-RECOMMENDED NOT-IN-ANOTHER-CATEGORY FAVORITES (THE LINK TRIFECTA)
All are solid and never disappoint.
Herbsaint
701 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130 | herbsaint.com
Cochon
930 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | cochonrestaurant.com
Peche
800 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | pecherestaurant.com
THE RESTAURANTS I TAKE MY VISITING EUROPEAN FRIENDS WHO HAVE NEVER BEEN TO NEW ORLEANS
BRENNAN’S
417 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | brennansneworleans.com
To me this is the quintessential New Orleans dining experience. Galitoire’s, Arnaud’s Antoine’s certainly all represent the city well, but Ralph Brennan is one of the country’s great restaurateurs. Best to leave my guest’s restaurant fate in his hands.
OTHER RANDOM FAVORITES
Mandina’s
3800 Canal St, New Orleans, LA 70119 | mandinasrestaurant.com
the best red gravy in town. Also, the best spot for Monday lunch—Red Beans and Rice.
N7
1117 Montegut St, New Orleans, LA 70117 | n7nola.com
cool outdoor area. Solid French-inspired cuisine.
Mosca’s
4137 US-90 West, Westwego, LA 70094 | moscasrestaurant.com
No need to make decisions, get the Spaghetti Bordelaise and the Oysters Mosca and eat them together.
Central City BBQ
1201 S Rampart St, New Orleans, LA 70113 | centralcitybbq.com
Great BBQ
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This Week’s Recipe: Pork Tenderloin Po-Boy
Delight your taste buds with this delicious Pork Tenderloin Po’ Boy, a perfect fusion of Southern charm and New Orleans creole flavors. This mouthwatering sandwich features tender, juicy pork, paired with a special chutney mayonaise.
INGREDIENTS
1 tsp Paprika
1 tsp brown Sugar
1 Tsp Kosher Salt
1 tsp Chili Powder
1 tsp Dry Mustard
1 tsp Black Pepper, freshly ground
¼ tsp Ground Cinnamon
1 tsp Ground Coriander
1-2 Tbl Olive Oil
2 Pork Tenderloins, approximately one-pound each, cleaned and trimmed
6 8-inch French bread or Sourdough Roll, split down the middle
2 cups Green Leaf Lettuce, shredded
3 Roma Tomatoes, slice thinly
½ cup Red Onion, shaved paper thin
1 Recipe Chutney Mayonnaise
INSTRUCTIONS
Combine the dry spices in a small mixing bowl, blend well.
Lightly brush the tenderloins with the olive oil and spread the dry spice mixture over the pork. Press the spice mixture firmly into the pork.
Prepare the grill and cook over direct medium heat until the pork is barely pink in the center, about 15-20 minutes (155 degrees). Turn the pork 2-3 times while cooking.
Remove the pork from the grill and allow to rest 5-10 minutes. While the pork is resting, grill the po boy bread for 1-2 minutes on each side.
Spread the chutney mayonnaise on the toasted bread. Slice the pork into one-eighth inch thick slices. Place several slices of pork on each roll and top with shredded lettuce, tomato and red onion.
Yield: 6 sandwiches
Robert St. John
